The Hermit's Hut

Soon after I moved to Ireland a read a beautiful poem written by a tenth century Irish Saint. The words of the poem have stuck with me and often ring in my ears when I see an old ruined stone cottage. I often stop and reflect and dream of what it must have looked like years ago when it was full of life, peaceful, and was beautiful...

I wanted to share with you a bit of the poem...

The Hermit's Hut ...

"I have a hut in the wood, none knows it by my Lord; an ash tree this side, a hazel on the other, a great tree on a mound encloses it.

Two heathery door-posts for support, and a lintel of honey-sickle; around its close the wood sheds its nuts upon fat swine.

The size of my hut, small yet not small, a place of familiar paths; the she-bird in its dress of blackbird colour sings a melodious strain from its gable.
...
A little hidden lowly hut, which owns the path-filled forest; will you go with me to see it?
...
a tree of apples of great bounty,..., huge; a seemly crop from small-nutted branching green hazels, in cluster like a fist.

Excellent fresh springs - a cup of water, splendid to drink- they gush forth abundantly; yet berries, bird-cherries...

Tame swine lie down around it, goats, young pigs, wild swine, tall deer, does, a badger's brood.

Peaceful, in crowds, a grave host of the countryside, an assembly at my house; foxes come to the wood before it - it is delightful..."
...
Without an hour of quarrel, without the noise of strife which disturbs you, grateful to the Prince who gives every good to my in my hut...









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2010 Calendar (July)

This photo was taken back in Oct of this year in the Bunratty Folk Park County Clare. It is actually one of many thatched cottage pictures taken on the day... I just have not had time to post them all! The folk park is a really nice place to visit, but is normally always swamped with tourists. This day, however, the whole place seem abandoned... and best of all we were there right after a shower, and the sun came out. Needless to say, I was taking photos like a crazy person!









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2010 Calendar (March)

This photo was taken a few months ago at the 'Rock of Cashel' in county Tipperary. This rock is the ancient site where families and clans paid tribute to the king of Munster. It was from this rock that overlooks much of Munster that new kings where crowned, and reigned for over a thousand years.

It is on this site that St. Patrick preached, converted, and baptized the king of Munster, and thus converted all of the kingdom. There is a funny story that has been passed down about the baptism... it would seem that during the baptism Patrick took his large crosier (staff) and stabbed it into the ground. He without noticing had stabbed it into the foot of the king. The king, being a recent convert, thought that the stabbing was a part of the Christian Rite. So... He stood there... foot impaled... and baring the pain until Patrick noticed what had happened.


I have often wanted to go back to the Rock of Cashel... We visited here once several years ago, and although the weather was horrible, the place left a real impression on me. So - when I had the opportunity to take a day off by myself - I decided to visit this amazing site. So... I spent the day with my journal, books, and camera reflecting and retreating here.


I took a lot of photos on the day, and will be posting more soon. This photo (for March) is of an old monastery in the foreground, and the ruined cathedral upon the rock in the background.







The calendar is available for purchase by clicking here
or
by going to this website:
http://www.lulu.com/content/lulustudio-calendar/ireland-2010/7908406

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More cottages...

Just a quick update with a few more old cottages.







Dee and our friend J





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Today's Random Pic...

The old thatched house







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A ghost story - For Halloween

Leamaneh Castle - County Clare





This stately house was originally built around 1480 as a Norman Castle (you can see the original castle bit on the far right side). Over the centuries it has housed many Lords none of which is more famous than "Máire Rúa" (Red Mary). Máire was a fiery red headed woman who was a direct descendant of Brian Boru (the last high king of Ireland). It is said that her clan (The O'Brians) were very fair and loved by all the people that lived on their lands.

There is an interesting story about Máire and this castle. In her youth she was madly in love to her husband, but her husband made a fatal mistake. In 1651 he supported the Irish revolt against the English. The revolt was brutally put down, and Máire's husband was killed in battle. Fearing that her lands and wealth would be stripped away she quickly traveled to where the English army was camped. It was there that she quickly found and seduced an English officer. The two were soon married, and Máire's fortune was secure. Some time after their marriage, however, Máire overheard her new husband mocking her dead love. In a fit of rage Máire shoved the second husband from the third story window.

Máire went on to marry again.... and she also outlived her third husband. It is said by some, that on occasion a faint shadow of Máire Rúa can be seen passing by the empty window on the third floor... still watching over her lands and missing her true love...




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The Horse Fair #3

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HMS Bounty

A few weeks ago we were shocked to see the HMS Bounty anchored out in the bay. This great sailing ship is best known for the mutiny that took place on it on 28 April 1789. This great naval ship once boasted four four pound cannons, and ten swivel guns! This light but fast ship once traveled the globe during a time when Britain ruled the waves.

This particular ship is actually not the original. This is a reconstruction of the HMS Bounty that was made for the 1960 film "Mutiny on the Bounty" staring Marlon Brando. It was also used in the movie "Pirates of the Caribbean – Dead Man's Chest" staring Johnny Depp.

I had intended to go in and see the ship up close while it was docked in the port. A day later, however, I noticed it sailing out to sea.








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Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick is a beast of a mountain that towers 2,510 ft over the surrounding area. This mountain has been a holy site for over 5,000 years, and is still an active site for pilgrimage and penance. I am headed out today to climb it with a friend... if I make it back I'll be sure to post some pictures!






(The line on the mountainside is the pilgrims' trail)




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A pirate's life for me....

While we were out touring one day we came across an old Norman castle that was once the hangout for the dreaded pirate Gráinne Ní Mháille (c. 1530 – c. 1603) (aka Grace O'Malley).






During her day Grace was notorious for commanding a small fleet of ships that 'taxed' any ships that passed through her seas along the west coast. She knew the small tidal bays along the rocky coast so well that her ships could disappear in a matter of moments, and her pursuers were often left stranded on sand dunes. Her brash style and fearless antics actually endeared her to just about everyone she met. Even Queen Elizabeth I was taken with her. The legendary meeting happened when Grace sailed to London and met with the monarch to discuss the release of captured relatives. Ní Mháille refused to bow before Elizabeth because she did not recognize her as the Queen of Ireland and threw a borrowed lace handkerchief into the fireplace after sneezing into it. The two women chatted in Latin (Ní Mháille spoke no English and Elizabeth spoke no Irish), and it is said that the Queen was fascinated by Grace's tales of adventure. The queen granted Grace's requests, and Grace soon returned to her pirate ways.



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Street piper

I had to run into the city for a few things Saturday, and I was so grateful that I decided to bring my camera. I was walking down a small side street when I first heard the faint sounds of pipes... Oh, how I love that sound. There is just something magical and timeless about the sounds of traditional instruments in the open air.... I followed the sounds until I came across the piper. The uilleann pipes are the Irish bagpipes. Unlike their Scottish cousins are not meant to be played out on mountain tops, but rather to be with a fiddle beside a fireplace. They are softer and more delicate, and their tones are pleasing to the ear... and they instantly cause your foot to pat in time with it... The piper didn't mind a few pictures (after I put some money in his hat), and I stood and enjoyed the music for a few moments.













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Making hay while the...

Living in Ireland - I quite often see flashes of a former world. It might be something as simple as an old man walking down the street with his cows... or a traditional fishing boat on the ocean... or even the look on someones face.... but the instant you see it you know that this truly is living history.... something that has not changed for generations. These brief windows always happen in a split second and when you are not expecting it...... They can never be planned and are never put on display for the tourists. Seeing them is just part of living here... something that you stumble upon... and when you do see them you instantly know that you have witnessed a treasure.

It happened again this week. I was out for a drive (not too far from where we live), and I noticed some hay stacks in a field. I parked at a pub down the road and hiked back to find them. After standing there taking a few pictures I decided to hike up some of the boreen (little side roads) to see some other hay stacks that were off in the distance (see the picture I got below).



Seeing hay stacks like this is becoming more and more rare these days. These are the real thing. The were not made by a machine, but rather have been dried and stacked by backbreaking labor... just as they have always been made. The farmers put a small plastic bag on top of them and then weigh it down attaching rocks with string on each corner of the bag. The result is a beautiful pile that is stable and won't blow away.


After walking down the boreen and back I decided that the lighting and sky were too nice to pass up. I had to keep walking and taking pictures. Boy... am I glad that I did! I walked up a large hill in hopes of getting some panoramic shots. Once I came to the crest of the hill I discovered that I was overlooking a field where a family was making hay. Seeing the several generations (at least three) working together just as they have for generations was a beautiful sight. It does not take a hopeless romantic like me to know that I was seeing something that may someday fade way. I really do love Ireland... and I love that even though it is a changing and modern country it has not lost its history... that it is alive in the fields...













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Ann Frank's House

I can't skip telling you about the best part of our trip!

Dee had the wonderful idea of reading Ann Frank's Diary while we were on our trip to Amsterdam. So, before we left Ireland, we bought two copies of the book and began reading like crazy. I have to admit that Ann Frank's Diary is something that I have always known about, but it is one of those classic books that I should read but never have. I was a little apprehensive to read the book at first.... after all.... it is a diary of a teenage girl... It only took me, however, about 10 pages to fall in love with the book. Ann wrote with a maturity and thoughtfulness far beyond her years. The book does contain her struggles with growing up and struggles with her parents, but it also really reveals what it was like to be a Jew in hiding under the Nazis. I was amazed at just what they knew of the outside and how aware they were of the war. You really could sense their hope and their desperation as the eight fugitives quietly lived out their lives in the four hidden rooms. I couldn't help but want them to survive... fear for their safety.... and want to know that it would all work out........... all the while knowing that they did not survive the war, that they (all but 1) were killed in the concentration camps.................. but somehow knowing this made the book somehow more personal and more powerful.


When Dee and I got to Amsterdam we quickly discovered that our B&B was just a few blocks over from Ann Frank's hiding place. We also discovered that there were some great benches right in front of the building. So... we spent many hours seated there in front of the house reading. This really made the book even more significant. Several times Ann wrote about sneaking looks out of the windows... watching the neighbors across the canal... and looking down at the street below as people went about their lives. It was almost eerie to read about these things as we sat there looking up at the dark windows.

We ended up going touring the hiding place on one of our last nights in Amsterdam. Having read the book made the tour 1000times more interesting. I'm so glad that we had read it before seeing the rooms.

If you have not read Ann Frank's Diary - I would highly recommend it. You will really gain an amazing perspective on the plight of the Jews and their struggle will quickly become very personal.





(Dee reading in front of the hiding place. The green building on the left is the front part of the building where the eight refugees hid for two years.)





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A hard day's work...

I had an unusual experience for an American last week. I worked on the bog. No... I didn't say blog... BOG. I have to admit that I did not know what a bog was before moving to Ireland, but I have come to know all about it over the past few years. Bogs are areas that were once fertile lands - often ancient forests. It is believed that during the last major climate change Ireland became warmer and wetter and many of the large hardwood forests that once covered Ireland disappeared forever. When this happened the rich minerals in the soil were washed down deeper and deeper into the soil by the massive amounts of rainfall. Eventually, a layer of soil rich with minerals formed. This layer (known as the iron pan) was so heavy with the minerals that it became impenetrable to the rainfall. Water stopped draining, and soon the soil was saturated with water... and when plants died they did not fully decompose. The bog was born. With time (thousands of years) layer after layer of half decomposed plant life built up and we now have a very thick deposit of peat (aka the half decomposed plant life). I don't know when it happened... but the ancient Irish discovered that this peat/turf can be cut, dried, and burned for warmth. It is a long backbreaking process to cut and dry the peat, but it is a tradition that has been practiced here for generations.

Well... a friend of mine had 'invited' me - actually I kept bothering him and until he let me - to go up and help him with his drying peat. So... I went up to the bog several nights this past week to help him turn and stack the peat blocks. The weather was amazing, and you could see for miles on the treeless plain, but the work was killer. It was as if I did a thousand squats as I went and picked up the peat blocks and moved them to dryer land. I did, however, appreciate the chance to learn about the process and to have a chance to goof off with my friend on the bog.

Here is a picture of some of the peat that we stacked to dry.











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Hookers everywhere...

yep... Hookers, a traditional fishing boat, have really been out a lot over the past few weeks. I love these small three sailed boats. Their black hulls and red or black sails create dark silhouettes out on the ocean that are beautiful and ominous at the same time. Scenes like the one below have not changed in hundreds of years.






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More from San Fran... I mean Lisbon...

So... Dee and I have made it back home to Ireland. We had a wonderful time in Portugal, and I think that the time away was really well timed and needed! Spending some time resting and playing with our friends was exactly what the doctor ordered!

It will take me a bit to finish sharing about our time there... we did so much and took so many photos... So, bare with me the next couple of days as I post some more about our time there...


In my last post I shared about the Golden Gate bridge in Lisbon... well, there were some other cool links with San Fransisco. Lisbon has a trolley system much like the one in San Fran.. In fact, many of the trolleys still going are "vintage". Taking a lift on one of these classic old electric tram cars (with their wooden interiors and old-style controls) is like taking a ride back in history. If, however, you take into consideration all of the hills in Lisbon and extremely narrow streets they are often more like riding a vintage roller coaster. You really did have to keep your hands and heads inside the car at all times!

Here are a few pics...

















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a couple of more crosses

Here are just a couple of quick shots of other crosses in the Monasterboice monastic site.

There was on massive high cross... this lives little wonder as to why they are called 'high'.







This photo shows two of the high crosses (the one pictured above) and the round tower that still stand over the ruins of the monastery. The round tower (now in ruins) was once a refuge and hideout for the monks during viking raids. It was built about the same time as the high crosses (12th century).




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A few days away...

We are back from spending a few days with our friends in the capital. Sorry that I have not been able to update much this week. Something was wrong with our internet connection over there, and I was a bit lost not being able to check my email! We had a great time with our friends, and were really sad to see them leave.

While they were here we were able to explore an ancient monastic site called Monasterboice. This monastic site was founded in the fifth century and contains some of the best examples of Irish High Crosses in Ireland. As you know - Irish High Crosses (10th century-ish) were the 'stained glass' of the Middle Ages. These massive stone crosses had Biblical scenes carved into them so that a largely illiterate culture would be able to see and remember the stories.

Here are a few pics of the first High Cross. It is known as "The Cross of Muiredach".

(the panels from the bottom to the top show - Jesus being arrested, Doubting Thomas, The Risen Christ as the ruler of the world, the crucifixion)




(detail of the crucifixion section)





(on the back side of the cross - Adam and Eve/Cain killing Abel)




(the back side of the cross showing Christ judging the souls of men. The center shows Christ with David playing a harp on the left and an angel with a book to his right. The left side shows the redeemed being led by an angel playing a trumpet. The right side shows the souls of the condemned being pushed away by demons kicking them (and one caring a pitchfork) .




Here we are - This gives you some idea of the massive size of the cross.




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Today's Random Pic...

A fairytale castle we saw this week with our friends...






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A visit from friends

We have some of our best friends here visiting this week! R & B are so much fun to hang out with, and we are having a blast getting to show them some of our favorite spots!

Here are just a couple of pics from today...

This is the most photographed dolmen in Ireland. This prehistoric site has been called many things over the years - druid's table, a stone table, portal tomb, etc... It consists of several large standing stones with a large capstone resting on the tops.










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Happy St. Paddy's day!

It is starting out to be a beautiful St. Patrick's day here! Dee and I are headed into the parade in just a little while... I'll post some pics just as soon as we get back! Hope that you all have a great and green day!

Here is a cute little story about St. Patrick. Hope you enjoy!





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Today's Random Pic...

A famine ship docked in Dublin.






This is the Jeanie Johnston. A beautifully reconstructed famine ship (late 1800's). These type of ships were once known as 'coffin ships' because of how many would lose their lives while on board. In her day, this great ship carried an average of 200 people on voyages of approximately 47 days from Ireland to America. It was from her decks that many Irish men, women, and children said goodbye to their families and their homeland.

I took the photo in Dublin a couple of weeks ago, and was able to achieve the 'old time' look by double exposing the photo with another one.



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More pics from the Friary

Who needs stained glass?












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A day out....

I got to do something that I love yesterday.... take some friends on a day trip to see some ancient ruins... it turned out to be a great day to take some pictures (anyone surprised?). We went to see several things (a castle... stone circles... and a quaint village...) but the real treat was a ruined old friary. The Friary was founded in 1351 by the Norman nobleman Sir Raymond de Burgo and is "the most extensive and best preserved of all the Franciscan friaries in Ireland". The maze of rooms, corridors, and stairs is a perfect playground for kids of all age. We have in the past played 'sardines' and 'hide and go seek' here... but this was the first time that we have taken kids. They loved to run the ancient halls and play here!

As I stood there looking at the massive structure I couldn't help but wonder what it looked like in its' hay day. The last two hundred years have taken their toll on the great building (loosing the roof… 2nd and 3rd floors… windows… and inner decorations), but thankfully it is now a protected structure and is being well taken care of... and thankfully it is still open to the public free of charge!








The Friary's seventy-foot tower





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Yesterday's Rainbow...

We took some students out on a quick tour to our favorite castle yesterday afternoon. The day was beautiful and a real welcomed break to all of the rain we have been having. It only rained for about five minutes... long enough for a beautiful double rainbow to appear over part of the castle.






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Today's history lesson...

O'Connell Street is Dublin's main street and is one of Europe's widest streets. The statue is that of Daniel O'Connell the great 19th century political leader that worked for Catholic Emancipation (the right for Catholics to sit in the Westminster Parliament, denied for over 100 years) and for the repeal of the Union between Ireland and Great Britain.

The great building with pillars (on the left of the photo) is the General Post Office. It was on this spot that the tri-colored Irish flag was first raised and Patrick Pearse read the declaration of Irish Independence during the 1916 Easter uprising.




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Today's Random Pic...

A Norman castle...

I took this picture early this spring about an hour after the sun had set.

Little people in the wood...

I awoke this morning to the brightest sunbeams coming in through our bathroom window. The shafts of light came in through the skylight and lit up our bedroom as if it was mid-day. I decided to get up and make the most of the bright morning by taking a little stroll through the local wood. I don't go here often, but always enjoy the strange setting of trees and rocks all covered with moss. Ireland has the reputation as being a magical place... and this is one of those places that always seems to confirm it.




I walked the paths for a long time enjoying the sounds and sights but eventually decided to ignore the signs telling you to stick to the path. I know... I was breaking the rules... but I desperately wanted to see some uprooted trees off in the distance. I trudged through the mud and eventually made it to the beautifully twisted trees.




It was while I was standing there taking the pictures that something caught my eye. I thought it was a red bird at first and didn't pay it much attention... but the sound of rustling on the ground and a little grunt made me jump. I started to run in the direction where I had seen the flash of red, but it seemed to disappear over a little ridge. It was then that I saw it or should I say... him. Being the keen photographer I am I already had my camera with it's giant zoom lens out and ready... and I was just able to snap this quick shot before he disappeared for good.




I walked around in the wood for a while more but it soon started to lash down with rain... I plan on going back and taking some more pictures... I'll let you know if I see him again...

Today's Random Pic...

This picture is taken in one of our favorite places. The 13th century castle (which was once owned by the Guinness family) is now a luxurious hotel where the cheap rooms cost around 300EURO a night. The gardens, however, are the best bit and are open to visitors. Dee and I love coming here to walk the countless paths and trails that lead from garden to garden... through woods... and along a lake. If you are there at the right time you can observe people and birds working/practicing at the falconry school, or you can enter into the walled/secret garden that is full of fruit producing trees and vines. My favorite thing to do is to walk along the portions of the old castle walls. I love walking inside them and exploring where their tunnels will lead me.

This picture was taken from inside one of the castle's walls when Dena and T were here visiting.

Happy St. Paddy's Day!!!!

Dee and I getting ready to head out to the parade! Every year this is day is a miserably wet and cold day. It is currently sunny and no sign of rain!!!! We will be taking pictures and posting soon! In the meantime here is a short video about St. Patrick. I don't know if you have ever seen it... but it is well worth a watch!

Strangeness...

A strange thing has happened.... Summer has come to Ireland!!! I know that it won't last... but for the last three days we have had some summerish weather! As I sit here, there is not a cloud in the sky... no rain... no wind... and Dee isn't wearing a coat! Miracles do happen!

I have to say that yesterday evening turned out to be one of the most beautiful nights we have had in months. Dee and I had a very busy (and good) day yesterday and decided to get out for a bit of a drive and walk before the sun disappeared for another month. Along the way we met a farmer named Pat (which I'm sure is short for Paddy or Patrick). He and his sheep dog came riding up the road while I was taking some photos. He jumped right off the bike and greeted me with a very firm handshake. We stood and talked about the weather - a conversation I have had a million times here. He asked where I was from. He wasn't familiar with where the state is located so I tried to act out it's location with my hands. In the end he was convinced that I was from Florida. I couldn't correct him. We stood and talked about the differences in our two homelands, and he shared with me how he has seen Ireland change over the past few years. With a twist of the head, a wink, and a smile he told me that he has been speaking Irish ever since he was "a bab in the cradle". He had come out that night to do some work. He had cows in the field that needed to be taken in before the temperatures dropped. He laughed and agreed when I asked if I could take some pictures. Now that I think about it, it must have seemed absurd. Here is this lad from Florida wanting to take pictures of something that is so normal and routine.... I'm sure he didn't know that I love this part of life in Ireland - a part that has not changed for generations. The last thing he told me as he walked away with his cows was that I needed to take the pictures home and show my friends and family in Florida.